Former 38-year-old banker Alexander MacLeod humorously reminisced on the surprising origin of runway tweed- a converted barn by the scenic Scottish loch. In a bid to keep their tradition alive, Scottish citizens, much like MacLeod, have been reestablishing the dwindling tweed industry. The islands of Lewis and Harris, off the northwest coast of Scotland, have been the spearheads in this effort.
In the age-old tradition of his ancestors, MacLeod, who comes from the island of Scalpay, close to Harris, lent his voice to the importance of maintaining the cultural heritage of the Scottish people: Tweed. He described weaving tweed as being more rewarding now, drawing a stark contrast to the situation some years back. MacLeod temporarily said his goodbyes to the Hebrides seven years ago for a stint in banking. However, the nostalgic connection to his homeland was too great a pull to ignore.
Alexander now serves in a seemingly unrelated industry, cosmetics, in a local organization. When the day’s work is done, he immerses himself in espionage podcasts as his deft fingers skillfully weave the fabric that defined an era in his country’s timeline. The calm environment of his antique stone barn workshop is only disturbed by the harmonious hum from his weaving machine.
The credibility of Harris tweed, made entirely from wool, is protected under a 1993 Act of Parliament. Among other requirements stated by the Act, the fabric must be produced start to finish by the residents of the Outer Hebrides, using purely virginal wool which must be dyed and woven on the island.
MacLeod derived a kind of delight from painstakingly creating a piece of tweed. The process doesn’t end in his workshop though. In adherence to the stringent quality control protocols, the British aristocracy-linked product progresses to the spinning mill for analysis. Any potential imperfection is identified and rectified, then the specially developed ‘Harris Tweed’ insignia is imprinted on the fabric to vouch for its origin and authenticity.
While the society staples such as jackets, caps, and bags are typically made from this tweed, it has found usage in the furniture industry. The knowledge required to weave tweed is usually acquired through the generations, preserving the legacy of their ancestors. However, contemporary weavers with different backgrounds are also joining to help continue this tradition.
It is encouraging to see young people taking interest in this old art, according to one industry specialist. This influx of new blood is the likely cause of the industry’s resurgence, boasting significant growth with over 580,000 meters of the fabric produced.
Unlike the past when the US market was the primary focus, the modern tweed industry now reaches out to various international markets like Korea, Japan, Germany, and France. A demonstration of the fabric’s versatility and timeless appeal.
One of the mill workers, a young man of 29 who has been working for 12 years, spoke on the modernization of tweed. Now, weavers exercise more creativity with deciding their fabric colours, adding an innovative twist to the traditional tones of the tweed. He displayed his rolls of vibrantly hued turquoise blue and fuchsia pink tweed as a testament of this shift.
The industry is thriving more than ever before and this mill worker took pride in breaching the stagnancy that the industry used to be plagued with. The fabric, he claims, is a stark contrast to the ‘fast fashion’.
It’s quite a rarity these days to be able to pinpoint the exact location where your clothing item has been manufactured. For some people, the thought of their tweed jacket being made on some obscure island is quite a unique charm – an antidote to the ambiguous production lines of today.
The creation of tweed is a painstaking process. Every stage of production must be conducted on the island, from the initial concept to the final product. Because of this, it’s undeniably a lengthy procedure. But for the people of the Hebrides, it’s a testament to their commitment to ‘slow fashion’.
The history, authenticity, and attention to detail that’s inherent in the production of tweed give it an elevated status in the fashion world. Although modernization keeps progressing and fast fashion dominates the markets, traditions like tweed weaving serve as a reminder of simpler times and the importance of quality over quantity.
Tweed, having been born out of necessity and function, has morphed into a symbol of status, class, and heritage. This attests to the power of human ingenuity, passion, and culture. And just as tweed has survived the test of times, establishing its relevance in the modern world, so too have the people of the Hebrides. This industry, the hardworking individuals behind it, and the culture that springs from the loom, continues to thrive and write the fabric of Scotland’s history.