Joshua George, a member of the Suquamish tribe, has spent more than 20 years diving in the Salish Sea, where he searches for a particular clam species that has found favor thousands of miles away. This creature, known as the geoduck, which has a peculiar and distinctive shape, is the world’s biggest burrowing clam. Indigenous to the Pacific Northwest and harvested by the locals long before the Europeans set foot there, its popularity has recently soared in China, turning it into an exclusive yet profitable American seafood export.
Currently, around 90% of the collected geoducks from the state of Washington are shipped to China, where they are celebrated as a delicacy. Due to the mounting trade conflict between the U.S. and China, however, the entire geoduck industry is experiencing significant hardships. The repercussion of this trade war leaves prospective Washington divers unemployed, Seattle exporter businesses on hold, and Chinese enthusiasts deprived of their highly esteemed clams.
Joshua George confessed his uncertainty about the future, stating that he has never been faced with such work insecurity in his 24 years in this industry. As the tide of the trade war rose rapidly at the beginning of the year, U.S. President Donald Trump ensured that tariffs on China hit a minimum of 145%, to which China retaliated with their own 125% tariffs on the U.S. As negotiations between high-ranking officials from both nations are set to commence in Switzerland, the future of this industry hangs in the balance.
Bringing attention back to the geoduck, a clam species weighing approximately 2 pounds and an important symbol in local culture, even serving as the mascot for Evergreen State College in Olympia. The flavor of this meaty marine creature is often described as a delightful blend of sweetness and brininess. Its consumption varies from place to place – while those on the West Coast savour it raw in sashimi, Chinese consumers usually enjoy it in stir-fry dishes or hot pot soups.
Before the imposition of tariffs, these clams were considered quite pricy, going for up to $100 per pound in restaurants, making it a treat associated with special celebrations like the Chinese New Year or corporate events. However, the trade war’s onset has disrupted the seafood trade and particularly the geoduck industry, a consequence of their need for same-day shipping due to their delicate nature.
Jim Boure, the general manager of Suquamish Seafoods, a Suquamish Tribe enterprise, described how the whole market came to a halt owing to the trade conflict. He emphasized how phone calls cancelling orders started pouring in soon after. As a result, the rate of geoduck harvesting decreased significantly.
Annually, two main sources supply the large volume of geoducks exported to China. These are wild harvests occurring on parts of the seafloor shared by the Washington State Department of Natural Resources and Puget Sound Treaty Indian Tribes, along with tideland farms. The state’s share is typically offered to private exporters in auctions, who then employ contract divers like George for their harvesting processes.
As recent as last April, divers in Washington state reported to have only harvested half of their expected haul from the state tracts. There was an approximate collection of 3.4 million pounds of wild Washington geoduck the previous year. The revenue from the state’s portion of the clams, a hefty $22.4 million, was directed towards local aquatic restoration projects.
Blain Reeves, an aquatic resources division manager of the state’s Department of Natural Resources, expressed concerns about the potential reduction in revenue since only half of the projected pounds of geoducks were collected. Meanwhile, the Suquamish operations have had no harvest orders but still need to maintain their readiness in case the Chinese market picks up again. As part of keeping their operations intact, George’s team recently conducted a quick trip for the state lab testing, collecting a few samples.
Joshua George fondly recalled the joy he and his team experienced when doing their job, unburdened by political confrontations or other complexities. Their diving operations, typically scheduled early in the day to ensure the same-day shipping of the harvested geoducks, allowed him the work-life balance to witness his children’s growth. Kyle Purser, another diver, mentioned his love for his underwater role but is now fearful of losing his job.
Moreover, the geoduck import market was already witnessing a slump due to China’s post-pandemic economic recovery challenges. While the recently imposed tariffs aggravated the geoduck traders’ problems in Washington, an unintended side effect has emerged. The American trade war has accidentally given the geoduck industry in Canada a leg-up, as they face a much lower tariff of 25% for exporting to China.
The key regions where commercial wild geoducks are known to thrive naturally are Washington state in the U.S. and Canada’s British Columbia province. James Austin, president of Canada’s Underwater Harvesters Association, expressed his expectations for Canada’s geoduck industry – predicting a harvest of about 2.75 million pounds in 2025, which may generate around 60 million Canadian dollars (equivalent to $43.4 million USD). He pointed out that Canada has now become the leading exporter for China, which enhanced their bargaining power for better prices.
On their first working week following the trade war interruption, Washington state divers Derrick McRae and his brother succeeded in extracting about 800 pounds of wild geoducks in a single day. Although hopeful, he stated, ‘We’re just kind of waiting on the edge of our seats to see what happens next.’
Ian Child, a farmer at one of the southernmost inlets, stated that the tariffs not only impacted his earnings but also disrupted the whole farming process. A seasonal task of placing young geoducks during summer has become problematic. However, he remains optimistic about the Chinese demand for geoducks, believing it’s still strong but is primarily impeded by the existing and impending tariffs.